The elegant seafront most visitors picture is Victorian — but the true heart of old Eastbourne beats a mile inland, and it is far, far older. St Mary’s Church in the Old Town has stood for some eight centuries, the ancient parish church around which the original village grew. Here’s the story of one of Eastbourne’s oldest and most fascinating buildings.
The ancient heart of Eastbourne
Long before Eastbourne became a fashionable resort, it was a quiet village called Bourne, clustered around a stream — the “bourne” — that still rises in nearby Motcombe. There was already a church on this spot when the Domesday Book was compiled in 1086, and records of one go back even earlier. The building you see today, however, was begun in the 12th century, raised from creamy Caen stone shipped over from Normandy, on the gentle slope above the stream. It is the ancient parish church of the town and is still regarded as Eastbourne’s “Civic Church”.
The church grew over the centuries much as the community did. It had reached close to its present size by around 1200, was considerably enlarged in the 14th century, and was essentially complete by 1500 — a span of medieval building that makes St Mary’s a living record of the town’s earliest history.
A building full of history
St Mary’s is a broad, handsome church of stone and flint, crowned by a tall, square, castellated sandstone tower that has watched over the Old Town for centuries. Because the ground falls away towards the stream, the chancel sits lower than the nave — and it was built first, its late-12th-century arcades among the oldest visible work. The graceful arcades of the nave date from the early 13th century. A careful Victorian restoration in 1851 tidied and repaired the building without much altering its ancient character, so what greets you today is genuinely old. It is listed at Grade I, the highest protection given to a historic building, reserved for those of exceptional interest.
Stories in the stone
Look closely and St Mary’s tells its stories. Carved into the medieval arcades is a scattering of graffiti — including numerous little fish, thought to recall the fishing that once brought prosperity to the community. Among the monuments is a memorial to a survivor of the notorious Black Hole of Calcutta, and a fine 17th-century tomb to Katherine Gildredge, whose family gave their name to Gildredge Park and one of the town’s main streets. There’s a delicate angel sculpture by the celebrated church artist Sir Ninian Comper, made in 1931 as a model for figures intended for Westminster Abbey, and glowing stained glass from across the centuries.
Did you know? The church also holds a memorial to Nelson Carter VC, the Eastbourne-born hero who won the Victoria Cross in 1916 — one of many threads linking St Mary’s to the wider story of the town.
Visiting St Mary’s
St Mary’s sits at the centre of Eastbourne’s Old Town, surrounded by historic streets and old inns, and it makes a wonderful focus for an afternoon’s wander through the oldest part of the town. It remains a living, active parish church, and its doors are usually open during the day for anyone who would like to step inside, take in the atmosphere, and appreciate its long history. As it’s a place of worship, do visit respectfully and be mindful of any services taking place — and, as ever, it’s worth checking current opening times before you go.
St Mary’s Church Eastbourne: FAQs
How old is St Mary’s Church, Eastbourne?
The present building dates from the 12th century, with a church recorded on the site even earlier. It reached close to its current size by around 1200 and was largely complete by 1500, making it one of the oldest buildings in Eastbourne.
Where is St Mary’s Church?
In the heart of Eastbourne’s Old Town, about a mile inland from the seafront, on the slope above the Bourne stream around which the original village grew.
Can you visit St Mary’s Church?
Yes — it is an active parish church and is usually open during the day for visitors and private prayer. Please visit respectfully as a place of worship, and check current opening hours before travelling.
What can you see inside?
Medieval arcades and carved graffiti (including fish), historic monuments such as the Gildredge tomb and a Black Hole of Calcutta memorial, an angel sculpture by Sir Ninian Comper, and centuries of stained glass.
Explore more history: wander the Old Town, discover the Dukes of Devonshire who built modern Eastbourne, or read the full history of Eastbourne.